Our children grew up enjoying sunny vacations on Maui. Together, we built fanciful sandcastles, rode roaring waves and, after lessons on snorkel gear in the pool, explored worlds of underwater fascination. Returning now as grandparents, we happily check out possibilities for future family fun around West Maui.

Our research begins with an exploration of its coastal heritage trail - perfect for grandchildren. Stretching from Napili Bay to Dr. Fleming Beach, this spectacular easily navigated three-kilometre route skirts four picture-perfect sugar sand beaches. Beyond the magnificent white crescents of Napili and Kapalua Bays, this trail continues over plush resort lawns and onto a rugged lava moonscape. Then winding down onto a boardwalk, it parallels Oneloa Bay where pohuehue, purple-blossomed beach morning glories, and naupaka, white-flowered shrubs, border golden sand dunes.

At the bay's north end, the trail rises between clusters of luxury condos and across the Ritz Carlton's immense lawn. Stopping at an extensive hedge enclosing an ancient burial ground, we admire a lava sculpture reflecting the site's sacred essence. This intriguing artwork depicts two mo'o lizards and two humans around a concentric hole, representing the portal where Hawaiian souls are guided to ancestral spirits.

Detouring downward alongside the golf course, we cross Maui's oldest lava flow and pause to shuffle though a New Age meditation labyrinth before proceeding toward the jagged shoreline. There, centuries of sea salt spray have whitened a row of flat upright rocks. These notable "Dragon's Teeth" will surely enchant young imaginations. Returning to the trail, we glimpse a remnant of the 17th century trail that encircled Maui.

At Fleming Beach, puzzled by a regatta of powerboats and outriggers offshore, a local explains, "Today, club canoe paddlers race nearly 52-kilometres across the channel to Molokai." While we picnic under shady ironwood trees, red-crested cardinals and colourful java sparrows dive for our tidbits.

During a morning nature hike, guide and plant guru Jaclyn welcomes us aboard the Jean Cousteau Ambassadors' shuttle. At the trailhead, she explains, "You will be seeing both a unique rainforest and extraordinary arboretum. Every rise in elevation rewards nature lovers large and small with fascinating ecological niches. In ascending Maunalei Arboretum, you'll see the layers of Maui's plant history, first sighting founder Dr. Fleming's early plantings."

Reforesting earlier clear-cuts of prized koa and sandalwood trees, this visionary arborist planted varieties of international species including the now huge rubber trees. Gigantic banyans present natural playgrounds for youngsters. Bouncing on one root trampoline, Jaclyn points out the gnarly climbing branches and tough swinging vines. Easily propagated, guava trees growing everywhere drop golden fruit that sweetly perfume the air. Passing next through a dense coffee grove, Jaclyn explains, "Maui's royal ali'i once owned the lands. Here, commoners grew these beans to pay for property."

The second level reveals many of the plants brought in canoes by ancient Hawaiians. Preserved and labelled, these native plants reflect a lifestyle that persisted for centuries. Jaclyn shows us hala fronds used for basket weaving, ahuhu for sedating fish, olona vines for making nets or fishing line and medicinal herbs to treat ailments. Gradually ambling upward, she explains the dense greenery: "Our rainforests produce an equivalent biomass to other rainforests, but uniquely at ground level."

A mix of endemic flora and fauna flourish at the highest altitude. A cacophony of cheery chirps emanates from ohia trees above us; frilly red blossoms ooze perfect nectar for elusive yellow and red-winged honeycreepers that flit from branch to branch. Rare ferns and weird mushrooms grow amid the tumultuous greenery. Horizontal spiderwebs appear ready to snare Hawaii's endemic wingless insects. At the summit, we view sweeping coastal panoramas and faraway Molokai. Descending, we chat about this as very delightful, insightful walk for young inquiring minds.

Later, at well-protected Kapalua Bay, we rejoin Jaclyn and several multi-aged ambassadors of the environment learning about underwater ecology and the use of waterproof digital cameras. On an ocean of motion, we're encouraged to focus on less animate animals like coral heads, sea cucumbers and sea urchins. "Those boring urchins below are actually interesting!" Jaclyn grins, "See how they've cut deep grooves in the coral? They patrol them on their spiny tube feet." Allowing these toxic critters to continue their groovy work, she later dives, brings up creatures and takes pictures of us as we cuddle a benign orange pencil urchin and decorator urchin.

Gaining confidence, and realizing our cameras' gigabyte potential, progress goes from clicking lazing lizardfish and shy boxfish to snapping darting triggerfish and splashy parrotfish. Educated earlier on how varieties of yellow butterfly fish mate for life, several romantic couples become memorialized! This adventure would be a sure hit with kids!

Daily snorkels at this and other local bays reveal blue neon wrasses cleaning up lineups of large fish and snowflake morays twisting among the coral searching for food, while colourful fish follow, perhaps hoping something tasty would be stirred up! A brown octopus slithers onto a coral head, and morphs into an indistinguishable speckled white lump in an act of truly magical camouflage. Swimming in a nearby cove, eight graceful turtles surround me, including two huge mottle-shelled residents - maybe fellow seniors! Such remarkable undersea dramas can be shared with grandchildren.

Snorkels in Napili Bay consistently end in time for us to attend Hawaiian cultural talks. Resorts like our Napili Kai Beach Resort often include such enriching presentations. Helping ourselves to icy lemonade and fresh pineapple bits, we sit among interested families listening to speakers tell about canoe building, historic fishing techniques, coconut husking and basket weaving.

On-site, Sea House Restaurant provides tempting island breakfasts: frittatas layered with purple sweet potatoes, red peppers and local goat cheese; volcano pancakes erupting with pineapple and local apple-bananas. Yet, simple breakfasts on our lanai are also very pleasant. Concerning comfort foods and special diets, Maui's condo living facilitates home-cooked meals. Supermarkets offer familiar products, succulent tropical fruit and delis that provide a range of Hawaiian delicacies and plate lunches, popular on-the-go meals served first during Maui's plantation days.

When lacking grand babysitters like us, island nanny services allow moms and dads to slip away on romantic dates or adult-oriented ventures. Investigating such on-site activities, we attend a putting social. Sipping Cuba Libres we hook, slice and generally maintain a high score in this game where low scores triumph. Grinning, we win the booby prize!

At next evening's sunset mai tai party, folks reminisce about traditional family vacations playing games, relaxing together poolside and going whale-watching. They tell about group outings to Haleakala volcano, Maui's zoo and its large new aquarium as well as movies, spectacular evening luaus and live shows in nearby Ka'anapali or Lahaina. We also learn how many resorts like ours offer small pitch and putts, shuffleboard and volleyball, and how ours even has Portuguese horseshoes!

Napili Kai Foundation maintains a 40-year tradition of weekly, first-class Polynesian shows. Joining folks from all over Maui, we watch talented keiki youngsters perform storytelling Hawaiian hulas and dances from Tahiti and New Zealand. Inspired by this young troupe involved in rich island culture, we picture our granddaughter enrolling in future hula lessons, maybe with Grandma!

This island paradise offers myriads of activities for children of all ages! Now updated on West Maui's fun, we can hardly wait to return for some grand-family holidays!

Planning Your Family Holiday:

• www.ritzcarlton.com/en/Properties/KapaluaMaui for first-class accommodations as well as see Ambassadors of the Environment programs.
• www.napilikai to investigate cozy condo stays.
• Kapalua's trail system appears at www.kapalua.com/adventures/on-resort-adventures/hiking.php and unique arboretum at www.flemingarboretum.org
• Kapalua Resort's Sensei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar is highly recommended!

AUGUST 2011 SENIOR LIVING MAGAZINE VANCOUVER ISLAND