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ARTICLES
Haida Gwaii [Islands of the People]By Dee Walmsley  A visit to the Queen Charlotte Islands confirms what British Columbians have known for decades - we do indeed live in God’s country. Our journey begins aboard Pacific Coastal Airlines for a two-hour flight to Masset on Graham Island, the largest in the archipelago of islands formerly known as the Queen Charlottes. A chorus of eagles circling on wings of steel, and the sweet smell of forest fresh air welcome our arrival. Our driver takes us to the town site of Masset, where we pick up our car rental and journey over to Oceanview Lodge, our home for the next two days. We are surprised to learn that Masset is the beginning (Mile 0) of Highway 16, better known to Mainlanders as the Yellowhead Highway. One might question how it connects to the mainland a six-hour ferry trip away. It’s Sunday and most of the town is asleep. We ask a local for directions to an eatery and laugh as he points out three restaurants in the tiny village, all Chinese, and all within a block of one another. Two are closed. After a quick bite, we drive three kilometres up the road to Old Masset. Home to about 700, Old Masset is the administrative seat of the Council of the Haida Nation and is a quaint little village with its totems, museums and sun-bleached buildings. After a tour of the town, we head south towards Port Clements. We are looking for a legend; the home of the infamous Golden Spruce, a genetic anomaly that once stood 30-feet (9.1 metres) tall on the banks of the Yakoun River near Port Clements in a place called Millennium Park. The Haida referred to it as the “Spirit Tree.” No one knows how this particular spruce with its luminous golden needles took root, but Haida legends kept this magnificent marvel alive for 300 years, lighting the forest like a beacon in a sea of green. That is until 1997, when Grant Hadwin a long-time logger, road designer, timber scout and disillusioned forester in a horrendous act of environmental protest set out in his kayak and chainsaw to destroy the world-famous golden Sitka, and crush the spirit of the Haida nation. In his state of paranoia against the government, highly unregulated logging companies’ clear-cuts, and river pollution, something snapped. He could no longer watch the forest’s rape under the current lumber practices. Today, the tree lies where it fell on the banks of the Yakoun River. Its golden essence now a driftwood log in a moss-filled graveyard of old-growth trees, stumps, and sunlit trails. Once discovered, its seeds were quickly gathered; sadly, all attempts but one to replicate the parent tree have failed. This sapling, while closely guarded, is on view in Millennium Park. The fate of Grant Hadwin is unknown. He left Prince Rupert by kayak on a cold winter’s night presumably paddling to Masset to attend his trial. His kayak and sleeping bag were found on the shores of Mary’s Island; no trace of the man was ever recovered, however, there are those who believe that he faked his demise and may be living in Russia, Alaska or wandering the forests of B.C. We drive back to Masset, saddened by the sight of the rotting log that once drew visitors from around the world. At Naikoon Provincial Park, we stop at North Beach. The sun is high and hot, the waters surprisingly warm as we roll up our jeans and enter the surf cooling our feet set on fire from the golden sand. We wade along the shoreline, picking up interesting rocks and shells unaware of the possible peril that floats soundlessly ahead. I step back horrified by the sight of what appears to be a floating condom. However, I soon discover they are a flotilla of translucent orbs: jellyfish. Not risking a severe stinging, I quickly hop back onto dry land. On the drive back to Masset, we decide to visit the Delkatla Bird Sanctuary. Winged specimens from the large sandhill cranes to miniscule golden-crowned kinglets are viewed on site. We see a few small birds flitting around the tall grass, hear the ever-raucous ravens, and agree to stop for the day. Back at our lodgings, we decide to rest and freshen up before finding a restaurant for dinner. A flock of screaming eagles soon sends us running across the room, where, from our window, delighted we stand awestruck as 15 eagles weave the wind feeding on the incoming tide. Tomorrow, we'll be outside with cameras ready but, for now, we must quell our own hunger. We pop into the town pub to discover the kitchen closed; fortunately, the restaurant at a nearby lodge gladly welcomes our business. Fresh salmon is on the menu and like hungry lions, we stuff our bellies before waddling back to bed and a bit of television; neither of us stays awake long enough to see the 11 p.m. news. The next morning, our hosts, Thi Hai, a beautiful Vietnamese woman, and Fritz, her German chef husband, greet us in the dining room where we feast on fresh blueberry pancakes, eggs and sausage. Satiated, we check the island map and plan our day. Our two-day stay will not allow us time to visit all the sites and logging roads on Graham Island (6,500 sq km), instead, we stick to the highway and head for Queen Charlotte City and whatever catches our fancy along the way. It isn’t long before we discover the Haida Heritage Centre, a wonderful seaside museum and gallery located just off the highway at the old Haida village site of Qay’llnagaay, the Sea Lion town. A working museum with classrooms, here elders teach songs, language and Haida history to interested students and seniors. We enjoy canoe carving works in progress in the carver’s shed while sepia photos, paintings and costumes adorn the walls and displays. Looking out over the bay, the giant totems guard their heritage. We’re back on the road heading for Queen Charlotte City in Bearskin Bay and are surprised to learn that the “city” is naught but a village. It is, however, thriving with fishing and logging industries, a hospital, RCMP station, government offices and a smattering of shops. We drive in and around before heading for Skidegate, where we’ll catch the ferry to Prince Rupert for a six-hour cruise in the morning. We make one more stop on the way back to Masset: a serene, silent, graveyard blanketed in sphagnum moss is the final resting place of the non-native population. The natural beauty here warms my soul; the grounds having returned to nature are far more beautiful than the manicured lawns of city cemeteries. Two days isn’t nearly enough time to experience the islands. To see the small island deer grazing on front lawns, to smell the sea breezes and forest pine, to listen to eagles, ravens and the wind in the trees; these are the memories we will take home.
JUNE 2010 SENIOR LIVING MAGAZINE, VANCOUVER & LOWER MAINLAND
Delkatla Bird Sanctuary: rare bird sightings include cattle egret, tufted duck, bar-tailed godwit, wood sandpiper, Smith’s longspur and brambling. Naikoon Provincial Park: A Queen Charlotte gem spanning over 69,166 hectares (179, 500 acres) of sandy beaches, rolling sand dunes, forested old growth hiking trails, wetlands, bogs, rock cliffs, marine tidal pools, viewing look-outs, historical shipwrecks, west coast fauna and flora and forests populated with wildlife like the smaller Sitka deer and the powerful black bear. View All Articles by Dee Walmsley This article has been viewed 610 times. Comments | 
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Showing 0 to 3 of 3 comments.
The more you write about places like this, the more people will go there and destroy them.
Posted by: Peter Andrews | October 7th, 2010
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Great article Dee, makes me want to go to Queen Charlottes even more after reading this. Thanks so much.
Posted by: Dee Wozniak | June 14th, 2010
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Hi Dee! Nice work, interesting article.
Posted by: Dianne K. | June 14th, 2010
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