Old Town. Young Heart.

By Chris Herbert


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Dirty Dan Harris founded Fairhaven, Washington with visions of the Great Northern Railway terminus dancing in his head.
His dream never materialized but we are thankful for his foresight and historic Fairhaven village that over looks beautiful Bellingham Bay.

Fairhaven is an easy day trip from anywhere on the Lower Mainland by car or by train from Vancouver. This historic town is also a three-hour Washington State passenger ferry ride from Victoria.

It's the Canadian Thanksgiving weekend and after a feast of turkey with all the fixings and Mom's homemade apple pie, we say goodbye to the family. Early Sunday morning, we climb out of bed and head out from Abbotsford entering the U.S. at the Sumas border crossing. "What is the purpose of your trip?" asks the large and grim looking U.S. border guard. He glances at our passports and then at us from behind his reflective aviator sunglasses.
"A trip to Fairhaven for a quick getaway," we reply, "a nice meal and a day at the spa." "Have a good time," he says as he tips his khaki Stetson.

Wait times at the border can vary greatly but on this day we're through in less than 10 minutes and on our way south along Meridian Way (Route 539). Between Sumas and Lynden, we pass recently harvested raspberry fields, jersey cows grazing in the fall sun and young colts galloping across the farmer's fields.

We make a quick stop in neighbouring Bellingham for some of our favourite Oregon cheese before leaving for historic Fairhaven, arriving just before noon. Total travelling time is about one hour and 15 minutes.

Founded in the 1880s by Dirty Dan Harris, we only discovered this charming town a few years ago. Since then, we have returned on numerous occasions. Situated on a gently sloping hillside, the main streets are mostly level and are easy to manoeuvre for walkers of any age and ability. And we walk everywhere. Whether it's eating out, visiting our favourite shops or the outdoor cinema at the village green, everything we want to see and do is located in an eight-square-block area. When we feel the need for a break from our wandering, an outdoor bench is never far away, or we stop at a sidewalk café or a gelato shop for a tasty treat.

Often we travel down for the day but on this occasion, we decided to overnight. "Welcome back." As soon as we step through the door of our hotel, the front desk clerk greets us and calm washes over me. I just want to curl up on one of the oversized couches in front of the fireplace with a good book. We joke that they must be pumping something intoxicating into the air.

We settle in and decide to take the 10-minute leisurely walk along South Bay Trail to the village. At least that is how long it would normally take, but Islay, our Westie, stops numerous times along the way to check out a new "sniff."
Much smarter than her human companions, our terrier instinctively knows how to enjoy the day. So, taking a page out of our puppy's book, we too stop to enjoy some of the beautiful gardens. We aren't alone: many walkers, their dogs, as well as cyclists use the trail to travel between Fairhaven and Bellingham.

Visible all along the bay are reminders of the once vibrant fishing industry. The pylons that in the past supported a cannery still jut out of the bay at low tide. The remains of a workshop, its metal siding rusted by years of exposure to the weather, sit precariously on the bank's edge. While Islay checks out a raccoon family hiding under the abandoned shed, I close my eyes and imagine the sights, sounds and smells of long gone fishermen offloading their catch.

Before moving on, we stop to read the inscription on the stone plaque that marks what was once the border between Fairhaven and Old Bellingham prior to the two towns merging in 1888.

Our first stop in town is one of our favourite places, a deli-bakery with an excellent menu. After a lunch of the soup of the day and a delicious turkey sandwich, we are re-energized. I loosen my belt a notch (their servings can feed a small village) and we move on.

While Fairhaven has seen a bit of a building boom, the old town flavour is evident everywhere. There are a few newer buildings, but most brick or sandstone structures are from the late 1800s through the early 1900s. The Terminal building is the oldest and stands next to Dirty Dan's Steak House.

Fairhaven celebrates its artisans, and our list of favourite haunts include an artist gift shop, a woodworking co-operative and, because the grandkids are never far from our thoughts, a children's toyshop. Whether we buy or simply browse, the merchants always make us feel welcome and, in fact, special.

Fairhaven village is an old town with a young heart, in part, because of the influence of the neighbouring Western Washington University, the local artists and some innovative restaurants.

Too quickly, the day has passed and it's time to return to our hotel for our spa appointments and dinner reservations. "How was your treatment?" asks our front desk clerk. We are dressed in our spa robes and likely look very contented after a great massage. "Is our room available for another night?" I ask. She smiles, no doubt having seen that look before. "It's all taken care of."

Getting to and staying in Fairhaven, Washington
If you are travelling from Metro Vancouver by car you can cross the border at the Peace Arch crossing and take the I5, but I recommend crossing the Canada/U.S. border at the Pacific crossing and follow Route 539 (Meridian Way) or Sumas crossing taking Route 9 to 539 (Meridian Way). Either of these is a pleasant drive. For directions and border crossing updates go to www.wsdot.wa.gov
The Amtrak rail service currently has two trains a day from Vancouver to Fairhaven Village (Bellingham) www.amtrak.com
The Washington State Ferry service runs a summertime passenger ferry from Victoria to Fairhaven. (Bellingham) www.washingtonferries.com

Accommodations in Fairhaven include The Fairhaven Village Inn
www.fairhavenvillageinn.com and our favourite place The Chrysalis Inn and Spa www.thechrysalisinn.com

 

JULY 2011 SENIOR LIVING MAGAZINE VANCOUVER ISLAND

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