Exploring Banderas Bay

By Enise Olding


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Three tiny sea turtle hatchlings clustered on the end of a flip-flop are carefully transported by an anxious tourist to calmer water beyond the buffeting surf that had kept the newborns stranded on the beach. Just a few hundred yards away from this brush with nature are the myriad hotels and tourist accommodations that line magnificent Bahia de Banderas on Mexico’s east coast. 

A winter destination for many Canadians, this area is commonly known as Puerto Vallarta, or simply PV. But, there’s so much more to it than a couple of letters can portray. One of the largest and deepest bays in North America, immense Banderas Bay boasts lengthy stretches of beach, dramatic rocky outcrops, marinas, hotels, an historic town and just about anything a sun-starved visitor seeks. 

Many guests opt for an easily planned all-inclusive holiday, which provides all the vacation relaxation choices imaginable. Such resorts allow them to choose from several different restaurants at their leisure. Countless activities are offered covering everything from Spanish lessons to yoga to tennis, and more. If young children are in the holiday party then there are activities specially designed for them. Hanging in a hammock, swimming in the pool, walking on the beach or sipping a beverage at some specially chosen corner of the resort are just some of the lovely experiences available. Others might prefer to rent a condo, or hotel accommodation or travel south with their own set of wheels. But, whatever way you get to PV, you can stick around in your area of choice or take off on some adventures in between the periods of rest and relaxation.

Information on getting out and about to various areas of interest, on land or sea, is easy to find; if you are looking to venture into old Mexico then an 80km trip to San Sebastian Del Oeste up in the Sierra Madres is a good choice. 

A 17th century colonial town that once thrived as gold and silver was mined up to the 1930s, San Sebastian remains relatively untouched by the passage of time, with its cobblestone streets, quaint village square, small intriguing shops, bandstand, and 18th century church. It will take an entire day to make the return journey from PV to San Sebastian by small tourist bus, and the trip typically includes a Mexican-style lunch, visits to the 18th century Hacienda Jalisco, the Café La Quinta Mary coffee plantation and a raicilla operation (a beverage made from the agave lechuguilla and originates from the state of Jalisco.) 

It’s a wondrous experience being both transported up some 5,413 feet (1,650 metres) and going back in time through marvellous landscapes of pine forests and sweeping valley views. A feeling further enhanced by a stroll through the old courtyard and cool rooms of the hacienda, which is a lovely stopping point before getting to the town itself. Historic records and keepsakes from former occupants and guests, Elizabeth Taylor included, are intriguing but the mysterious underground tunnels, which once led into the town, maybe more so.  

Perhaps the most welcomed aspect of any of the adventure trips available is the wealth of information provided by the guides. Not only is the geographic area covered, but the history, myths, beliefs and cultural practices of the areas. For example, the guides can tell you everything you would ever want to know about producing coffee, from the bean to the drink, revealed with a walk through a coffee plantation. The guides were well-informed on all aspects of Mexico. Such a bounty of knowledge makes each trip richer and provides insight into the essence of the country and its people. 

On board a Mercedes-Benz 4x4 Unimog, off-road transport is an adventure in itself and perfect for getting off the beaten track. The open-sided vehicle has a covered top, suspended hanging handhold and is great for a trip that is rough and exciting. How else could you get to remote ranches, traditional villages and plunge into the tropical forest of the Sierra Madre Mountains while fording river beds, traversing gullies and skimming up then plunging down impossibly steep and rugged mountainsides? Cattle graze blithely through these distant areas, mounted cowboys wave, and at a traditional “casa” near San Ignacio tortillas with all the traditional fillings are handmade and cooked in an open kitchen. A lesson is given in how to properly eat tortillas, and with much enthusiastic practise, is well learned. 

A nature walk through the remote tropical forest of the Sierra Madre Mountains provides a fascinating look at the unique ecosystem of the area. Learning how to survive by eating termites (not as good as the tortillas) and spotting, then avoiding, fire ants, is just some of the information on the flora and fauna that is shared. The day of adventure winds down to the ocean for time at the increasingly popular surfer village of Sayulita, just over the promontory that marks the northern end of Banderas Bay. 

Another must-see: the picturesque Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe with its crown-topped bell tower is well worth the steep climb, and can be followed later with a cooling walk along the popular oceanside Malecon esplanade. 

The surprise is that the city tour then heads towards the southern end of Banderas Bay and back into the land of mountains, rivers and rugged scenery. A visit to a tequila producer provides yet another vast learning experience. Along with the other trips, this one has made it possible to get a good idea of what the various areas around Banderas Bay are like.

Thanks to imaginative air schedules, it’s possible to go from snow-dusted western Canada directly to the heat of Puerto Vallarta and experience the richness of an entirely different culture in a few hours. Enjoy a relaxing or energetic holiday, appreciate the intricate beaded art of the Huichol, be serenaded by mariachis, test the varieties of tequila and soak up the sun.

A week in PV just scratches the surface of the many potential experiences it has to offer, but the memories are so intoxicatingly varied and the contrasts so great that it makes it seem much longer, and besides it leaves so much more to be discovered on the next trip.

www.visitpuertovallarta.com
www.rivieranayarit.com
www.vallarta-adventures.com

 

FEBRUARY 2012 SENIOR LIVING MAGAZINE VANCOUVER ISLAND
FEBRUARY 2012 SENIOR LIVING MAGAZINE VANCOUVER & LOWER MAINLAND

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